Friday, January 13, 2017

Cowl Induction

Ok so I want to cut this weekend but it's going to rain. In order to work in the garage I'll need to run the motor. Given the dirty state under the hood I'd rather not do this without an intake filter in place. So before the sparks can start flying I'll need to address the intake issue.

This is another project that has been thoroughly written up elsewhere. After relocating the windshield washer reservoir (Wheel Well Trimming Part 1) into the space previously occupied by the stock air box I needed somewhere for the little 4.0L to get air. This modification allows the dry side of the cowl to act as an air box. The benefits are twofold: 1) ambient temp air is collected vs hot engine bay air (hence the term 'cold air intake') and 2) the set up acts like a snorkel by relocating the intake to the hood level allowing deeper water crossings.

Finished product:

Parts for this project:
-Spectre 3" OD intake flex tube (linky)
-Spectre 3"OD x 6" intake tube
-Random air hose connector I had laying around
-AirRaid cone filter (linky)
-Frost King EPDM 1/4 weather seal from Home Depot
-Door edge trim from Auto Zone

Not many pictures on this one as most of the work was done at night. Pretty straight forward though:

1) Remove wiper arms and cowl cover. Notice the passenger side has a solid plastic backing creating the 'dry side' of the cowl. The reason for this is the cabin air intake vent is located over here.

2) Cut out the rectangular depression to allow access to the cowl. Should be about 5" wide to allow the filter element to fit. In hindsight I should have taken the extra metal out of the windshield side where there is a giant rubber gasket to provide cover. As it turns out I went towards the hood creating a small exposed gap. This will be addressed with the weather seal later.

Gap where I should NOT have cut:



Here the hood (top of the pic) is in the up position partially blocking the shot. The actual cut out extends towards the top of the picture a bit more than shown:



3) Cut a 3"-ish hole in the firewall. Widen just enough to pass the flex tube through. Hit with some rattle can (black truck bonus!) and trim out with the door edging to protect the plastic tube.



4) Connect everything. The outer diameter (OD) and inner diameters (ID) don't match up well. I used a couple turns of Gorilla tape around the OD to make up the difference then tighten everything up with hose clamps. 

5) Line the outer edges of the cowl cover with the EPDM weather seal. This is just extra protection from any water that may try to get into our new air box. Rain, snow that intrudes on the drivers side will flow out without (hopefully) wetting the filter. Also why I chose the oiled over dry filter in this application.

Here's a shot of the weather seal installed:



6) Drill a hole for the air hose fitting into the solid tube. This will be your new CCV tube connection. I used some random tubing I had laying around cut down to size. Fits tightly over the air hose connector and inside the existing CCV tube.

The additional interior noise from the intake is minimal at low throttle. I only hear it with the windows up, radio and fan off. Even then it reminds me of having static on the radio at a low volume. No whistle that I notice. Now, when you lean into the skinny pedal there is a very audible roar. I think it sounds beastly. ROAR!!!

Project Cost: $100
Total Build Cost: $3,655

Thursday, January 12, 2017

Mounting Wheels and Tires

Sorry, no pics for this one. :(

The wheels and tires showed up earlier this week. Bought some valve stems at the local Auto Zone and took the whole assembly to Sprockets auto skills center for mount/balance. It's $4/tire if you DIY.

I went with new wheels for the backspacing. Really liked the look of the Ravine rims and would have even been ok with the OEM steelies. Either option would require wheel spacers to keep from rubbing on the inside. Good wheel spacers cost nearly as much as cheap steel wheels making this an easy decision.

Parts for this project:
-33x10.50R15, Mud-Terrain T/A KM2 purchased from www.4WD.com ($716 after discounts)
-Pro Comp Steel Wheels Series 97 Wheel with Gloss Black Finish (15x8"/5x4.5") from Amazon.com  ($260)
-Slime 2080-A Rubber Tire Valve Stems, 1-1/4" TR 413 from Auto Zone ($3)

Received a crash course on using the tire mounting and balancing equipment then went to work. Took me awhile but part of this project is learning new skills as I go along. The combo is freaking heavy. I hope the 4.0L mated to factory 3.55 gearing is enough as new gears/lockers are still way down on the to-do list.

Next up - making space to fit the new wheel/tire combo. Let's get to cutting!

Project Cost: $1,023
Total Build Cost: $3,555



Sunday, January 8, 2017

Wheel Well Trimming Part 1

Project XJ needs to shoes. I have my mind set on BFG KM2's in a 33x10.5R15. In order to fit these meats with the 3.5" RE I'll need to do some trimming. After much research I'm going to keep the inner fender liner; a little work for a lot of payoff IMHO. More on that later...

For now, some pics of the factory fenders sans flares:



First issue - the windshield washer fluid reservoir is located in the forward portion of the drivers-side wheel well. Another inconvenience, the horn is hanging down there too. 



I don't like it so it all must go. Some folks will source reservoirs from other models via the junk yard however I'm going to see if I can make the factory one work. Looks like there is a perfect space along the drivers-side engine compartment if only that pesky air intake box weren't in the way...


Solution: Cowl Induction!

Here's the relocated reservoir. I'll deal with the intake later. Zip ties are a temp solution with long-term plans for fabricating a mounting bracket utilizing the stock air box bolt holes. As a note, the zip ties hold this thing TIGHT. Could last years.



The horn went to the front of the newly created space just behind the headlight. Used an existing bolt hole. Too easy.



And now the wheel well is clear for cutting.





Project Cost: $0
Total Build Cost: $2,532





Saturday, January 7, 2017

Photo Op

Sun setting over Stillhouse Lake


Power Window/Door Lock Issues

Found a good write up describing the symptoms observed with the power window/door locks: 4wdmechanix.com

As a bonus this is also an easy fix without spending a dime!


PCM before:


Notice the fine cracks in the solder




PCM after:




Found multiple cracks so just to be safe I re-soldered all connections on both the PCM and DCM. Power door locks and windows function properly once again. 

Project Cost: $0
Total Build Cost: $2,532

Rear Lift Gate Strut Replacement

This is an easy fix. Blown struts on the rear lift gate won't hold the weight. Found some inexpensive replacements on Amazon.com (Tuff Support)



Before:



After:


Project Cost: $32
Total Build Cost: $2,532

Project XJ Walk-Around

Since this is a project rig I purposely chose one that needed work. The XJ will not be a daily driver (DD) or used for long road trips but will be street legal. The primary purpose of this build is a light to medium duty trail rig. Therefore cosmetics (paint, sheetmetal, etc) are of little value. Function over form with this build. And I hope to stay true to the mantra 'don't buy it, build it' throughout the course of the project. With that, let's see what we are working with...

The good - mechanically sound drive train. Starts easily, shifts smoothly, transfer case engages without issue. Clean underbelly with minimal surface rust. No cracks, creases, bends or other unibody-associated failures observed. Doors are all aligned and open/close smoothly.

The previous owner (PO) installed a number of upgrades and included some extra parts that can be used.

Items installed buy PO:
-Rubicon Express 3.5" suspension lift with full rear leaf pack



-Aftermarket stereo/equalizer/amp/speakers




-Homemade roof rack


-Homemade rear bumper
-TJ "Ravine" alloy rims (x5)
-OEM steel rims (x4)
-Mixed tires, all in poor shape.
-Crossmember drop? Need to confirm but appears to have spacers...



Items included by PO but not installed:
-TJ fender flares
-Rough Country sway bar quick disconnects (NIB)
-Ball joints (NIB)
-Ujoints (NIB)
-Spark plugs (NIB)
-Wires (NIB)
-Distributor cap and rotor (NIB)
-Haynes service manual

The bad - issues noted during walk-around and test drive:
-Sloppy steering/wandering
-Power windows/door locks only work from select controllers and intermittently
-Rear lift gate difficult to open, does not stay open
-OEM brake lines (too short)
-Parking brake does not hold
-AC does not blow cold
-Battery very weak
-Drivers seat cushion needs rebuilt (flat)
-Headliner needs replaced
-No slip yoke eliminator (SYE); apparently not an issue as there are no noticeable driveline vibrations. Likely a result of the x-member drop
-Class I leaks around valve cover, oil pan, transmission pan... no drips or puddles under the vehicle

So much potential! Where to begin...

Project Cost: $0
Total Build Cost: $2,532